How to Measure for a uPVC Door: A Step-by-Step Guide
Introduction
Whether you’re tackling a full-on DIY project or just getting your measurements ready for a supply-only uPVC door, one thing’s certain: accuracy is everything.
Taking the time to learn how to measure for a uPVC door properly means you’ll avoid unnecessary headaches — no last-minute surprises, no awkward gaps, and definitely no returns. A correctly sized door doesn’t just look good — it keeps your home secure, energy-efficient, and draught-free all year round.
This guide is built for homeowners, self-installers, and anyone planning to order a door online. If you’re ready to replace that tired old door, or simply want to be 100% sure you’re ordering the right size, you’re in the right place.
👉 For a visual walk-through, check out this step-by-step measuring video on YouTube.
Why Accurate Measuring Matters
Measuring your uPVC door opening isn’t just a box-ticking exercise — it’s the make-or-break moment that decides whether your new door slides in like a glove or becomes a costly DIY disaster. Here’s why precision matters:
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Preventing Costly Mistakes
Ordering a door that’s even a few millimetres too big (or too small) can mean wasted money, delays, and a whole lot of frustration. Get it right the first time — as highlighted in this measuring guide. -
Ensuring a Smooth Fit
A well-measured door slots neatly into place — no trimming, no wrestling, no last-minute fixes. Just a clean, professional finish from the start. GRP Composite Doors recommend using the smallest measurement for width and height and allowing 10mm tolerance for fitting. -
Avoiding Drafts and Fitting Issues
Poorly measured doors can leave gaps, let in cold air, and compromise your home’s energy efficiency. Precision here means comfort later.
Tools You’ll Need
Before you start measuring, get your toolkit in order. You won’t need anything fancy — just a few essentials to get the job done right:
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Metal Tape Measure
Reliable, rigid, and accurate — a metal tape won’t sag or stretch like fabric ones, giving you clean, precise measurements every time. -
Notepad and Pen
Don’t rely on memory. Jot everything down as you go — including where each measurement was taken. -
(Optional) Spirit Level
Great for checking whether the opening is level or slightly off. Handy if your house is older or has settled over time. -
(Optional) A Helper
A second pair of hands makes it easier to hold the tape in place and double-check your numbers — especially on wider door frames.
Pro Tip: Avoid fabric or tailor’s tape measures. They’re fine for clothes — but when it comes to door openings, they can give wildly inaccurate readings. Other people agree: metal tapes only.
Step 6: Decide Door Opening Direction
This step often trips people up — but it’s crucial when placing your order. Getting the door handing wrong can mean a serious delay (or worse, a door you can’t use).
Here’s how to get it right:
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Stand Inside Your Home
Always determine the door opening direction from the inside looking out. -
Check the Hinges
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If the hinges are on your left and the door opens towards you, it’s a left-hand inward opening.
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Hinges on the right? That’s a right-hand inward opening.
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Outward Opening Doors?
Same rule applies — stand inside, note the hinge side, and the direction the door opens away from you.
🔍 Need visual clarification? Check this diagram from Eurocell.
Why It Matters:
Your door supplier will build your door to this exact configuration. Getting it wrong could mean the door swings into a wall, hits furniture — or needs reordering entirely.
Step 7: Double-Check Everything
You’ve taken your measurements — now take a breath… and check them again.
This final step can mean the difference between a door that fits like a dream and one that turns installation day into a nightmare.
Here’s what to do:
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Measure Twice
Go over every width, height, and depth again. Repeating the process helps catch any errors or misreading’s. -
Round Down, Never Up
Always round down to the nearest millimetre — never up. A slightly smaller door is far easier to fit than one that’s too big. -
Check for Consistency
Do your diagonal measurements match within 5–10mm? Is your height deduction consistent? If anything feels off, go back and reassess. -
Get a Second Opinion (if needed)
If your opening looks unusual — out of square, uneven brickwork, or tricky thresholds — don’t guess. Speak to a supplier or get a professional survey. It’s better to ask than to order wrong. DIYnot’s user forum is also packed with real-world advice.
Remember: A few extra minutes here can save you days of hassle later.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even confident DIYers can slip up when learning how to measure for a uPVC door. Here are the most common pitfalls — and how to steer clear:
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Measuring the Old Door or Frame
Don’t do it. Your new door must fit the brickwork opening, not replicate an old or poorly installed frame. -
Forgetting to Allow for the Sill
If you’re adding or replacing the sill, factor it into your height measurement or your door could end up misaligned. -
Assuming the Opening is Square
Never assume — always check the diagonals. -
Using Inches or Feet
Always use millimetres. Mixing units is one of the quickest ways to mess up an order. -
Guessing Instead of Measuring
A few millimetres off can cause real problems. Always measure — and re-measure. -
Skipping Professional Help When Unsure
If your opening isn’t standard or you’re not 100% confident, many suppliers (like Doorland) offer expert advice or in-person surveys.
FAQ: Measuring for a uPVC Door
Can I measure my old door or frame instead of the brickwork opening?
No — always measure the brickwork opening, not the existing door or frame. Older doors may have been trimmed or poorly fitted, and using them as a reference can result in incorrect sizing.
Why do I need to deduct 10mm from my measurements?
The 10mm deduction provides a fitting tolerance, giving enough space to position, level, and seal the door correctly without forcing it into place. It ensures a neat, weather-tight installation.
What if my door opening isn’t square?
If your diagonal measurements differ by more than 5–10mm, your opening is out of square. Don’t panic — just use the smallest width and height when ordering, and speak to your supplier for tailored advice.
Do I include the sill in my height measurement?
Yes — if you’re replacing or adding a new sill, you’ll need to account for it in the height. Measure from where the new sill will sit to the underside of the top brick or lintel.
Should I give my measurements in inches or millimetres?
Always give your final measurements in millimetres (mm). This is the standard format used by door suppliers across the UK and ensures accuracy in manufacturing.